Laos: Luang Prabang – Vientiane

28 February 2026

We had expected great things from Luang Prabang; it was reputed to be a picturesque town, possess  a strong cultural heritage and contain examples of well-preserved Lao architecture. We looked forward too, to seeing evidence of its colonial European past, and as the religious capital of Laos, visiting impressive temples with Buddhist monks go about their daily business.

It did not quite live up to those expectations. Strolling through the town centre sometimes gave us an impression of being in a themed park. We do not dislike touristy or crowded places per se but when there are too many businesses geared toward foreign tourists instead of local people or domestic visitors, the place tends to lose its authenticity and it is difficult to get a true sense of local life.

A good case in point was the spiritual Alms Giving Ceremony (known as Sai Bat). During the ceremony, Buddhist monks stroll the city each day at dawn and people give them offerings (mostly in the form of rice or snacks). This ritual has existed since millennia but now, instead of local inhabitants being the main donors, busloads of noisy tourists are herded in, mobile phones at the  ready and pose for their Instagram pics as the monks pass by, giving it all an air of an elaborate circus, rather than the spiritual ceremony that it is intended to be. Some of the visitors even asked the monks to smile into their camera.

Yes of course, tourism provides a much-need source income and employment for the local population. However, it needs to be sustainable, in order for the place to retain its identity.

In the town centre, filled with shops, restaurants, hotels, and guesthouses catering to foreign tourists, the traffic was often at a standstill and the air quality was very poor, dusty and full of exhaust fumes. Nevertheless, there were some sites absolutely worth visiting: the 500 years old Wat Xieng Thong, one of the most important Lao monasteries; Phousi Temple, built on a hill of the same name in the centre of the town and offering great views of the surrounding area, including the confluence of the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers, set against a background of jagged mountains; the Royal Palace, probably the most iconic building of all, a mix of traditional Lao architecture and French Beaux-Arts style.

Finally, the Night Market, which starts daily around 5pm in the main streets of the town, offering many handicrafts and street foods. While Lao cuisine is humbler than its illustrious neighbours, there are still some delicious local dishes to try; our favourite was the Khao Piak Sen (a meat broth noodle soup) and the unique dish served up canteen-style in a makeshift restaurant by the side of the road for a few hours every evening to eager locals (and us).  

We left Luang Prabang to travel by high speed train to Vientiane, the country’s capital, a two hour journey. Vientiane, certainly in comparison with Luang Prabang, was very relaxed and slow-paced.

Vientiane was Laos’ capital from 1560 to 1828. The city was then completely destroyed in a disastrous war with Siam (Thailand), and the royal family moved the capital back to Luang Prabang where it had been previously. Vientiane lay in ruins until the French rebuilt it as the capital of the French Protectorate in 1899; it has remained the capital ever since, even though the royal family stayed in Luang Prabang from 1828 until the Communists threw them out in 1975.

The highlights there were the Mekong Riverfront walkway, the Pha That Luang (with a 45m high golden stupa) and the Patuxai Victory Monument (resembling the Arc de Triomphe in Paris and somewhat ironically dedicated to those who fought for independence from France). Vientiane’s colonial past was also evident through the many French-Lao fusion restaurants, coffee shops and bakeries that could be found there.

Our favourite temple was Wat Sisaket, set in lovely gardens, and believed to be the city’s oldest surviving wat. The SIM (ordination hall) has a five-tiered roof and a colonnaded terrace. Inside can be found a large Buddha and hundreds of Buddha niches (which can also be seen in the cloister outside), as well as  also a lovely old library building.

People who dislike Vientiane, probably dislike it because there is not a lot to do there. Most people who like Vientiane, like it for exactly the same reason. It’s a place you go to sit, drink coffee and watch the world go by. That was fine with us as we prepared ourselves mentally for our next big journey: China.