Regensburg - or 2000 years of history

10 August 2022.

An hour and half on the train north-east of Munich lies Regensburg, a relatively small but charming Unesco World Heritage city, split into two halves by the river Danube. A veritable open-air museum, it contains an incredible 1,500 listed buildings, some of which date back to Roman times. The architectural styles span Gothic and Romanesque churches and Baroque and Renaissance palaces. Everywhere you look are colourful town-houses, mostly built in the 12th and 13th centuries.

We took the short walk from our 16th century hotel to the river to admire the city’s famous stone bridge – Germany’s oldest – a medieval masterpiece built between 1135 and 1146 (for several centuries it was the only bridge crossing the Danube between Ulm and Vienna). Next to the bridge, we checked out the World Heritage Visitor Centre, for an overview of the city’s history and architecture

Also right next to the bridge, we sat down at the Sausage Kitchen, which has been serving up traditional, hand-made Bratwurst and sauerkraut for over 500 years. It was quite delicious.

We then took a digestive stroll over the Old Stone Bridge to Stadtamhof, on the northern side of the river, for some photogenic views back over the Old Town. Stadtamhof was formerly an independent town that has only been part of Regensburg since 1924. It offers more delightful architecture and independent shops selling local handicrafts. Dinner was taken at the Spital beer garden in by the river where I sampled the locally crafted beer as Mylene dug in to her favorite German dish, Schweinshaxe (pork knuckle).

Back in the Old Town and dominating the city skyline are the twin spires of St. Peter’s Cathedral (Regensburg Dom), which was built between 1260-1520, and is considered one of the finest examples of Gothic architecture in Bavaria; some of the stained glass windows date back to the 13th century and the intricately ornamented west portal is also a must-see.

To the north of the Altes Rathhaus (old town hall) and Haidplatz, both must-see’s dating back to the 12th century, is the even older Porta Praetoria, an impressive arched gate built by Emperor Marcus Aurelius in 179 A.D., that served as an entrance to the Castra Regina fortress. Close by is the Goliath House with a large mural of David slaying Goliath. The house was built in 1260 and the painting is from 1573.

Although Regensburg’s Old Town is quite compact, with most of the main sights within easy walking distance, we treated ourselves the next morning to an electric city bus tour which was especially helpful to view some of the outer-lying sights, such as the Schloss Thurn und Taxis. In the 15th century, Franz von Taxis (1459–1517) assured his place in history by setting up the first European postal system, which remained a monopoly until the 19th century. In recognition of his services, the family was given the former Benedictine monastery St Emmeram, henceforth known as Schloss Thurn und Taxis. It was soon one of the most modern palaces in Europe and featured such luxuries as flushing toilets. Today it is the world's largest inhabited building.

The palace complex also contains the Schatzkammer (Treasury). The jewelery, porcelain and precious furnishings on display belonged, for many years, to the wealthiest dynasty in Germany. The fortune, administered by Prince Albert II, is still estimated at well over €1 billion.

There was just enough time left in our short but highly interesting visit to this beautiful city for some quick shopping and a delicious Jaegerbraten with mushrooms and spaetzli at a local tavern before we headed back to the train station and Munich.