Chile - Part 1: Santiago, Valparaiso, Vina del Mar

30 April 2025

It took our bus over 18 hours to make the long trip to our next destination, via an Andean  mountain pass on the Argentine/Chile border. There we saw snow for the only time during our whole trip. We would also end up seeing both ends of Chile, almost 4,000 kilometres apart, but almost half the country’s population – 7 million - lives in its capital, Santiago.

Our hotel, the Sommelier, was located near the old town and the Plaza de Armas, the city’s symbolic heart since its founding in 1541. In colonial times a gallows was the square's grisly centerpiece; today it's a fountain celebrating the liberator, Simón Bolívar, shaded by dozens of palm trees. Parallel pedestrian precincts disgorge scores of strolling citadins onto the square on weekends and sunny weekday afternoons: clowns, dancers, helium-balloon sellers and snack stands keep them entertained.

On the square, we marvelled at the grand Cathedral of Santiago, dating back to 1748 and the  Museo Histórico Nacional, with colonial furniture, weapons, paintings, historical objects and models charting Chile's colonial and republican history. Even more impressive was the Pre-Columbian Art Museum close by; it features exquisite pottery from most major pre-Columbian cultures as well hefty Maya stone columns and towering Mapuche totems.

However, what I had really come to see was the Museum of Human Rights, opened in 2010. Its exhibits expose the terrifying human rights violations and large-scale disappearances' that took place under Chile's military government after General Pinochet’s military coup ousted the elected President Allende, in 1973. In total, were over 40,000 victims were subjected to torture and execution. One can gaze at the photographs, letters, newspaper articles and film on display there but they can hardly do justice to the living (and dying) hell that must have been experienced by so many innocent people at that time.

A city walking tour brought us past other famous city landmarks,  including the Palacio de la Moneda (formerly a Mint and now the President’s Palace where Allende spent his last hours); the Stock Exchange Building, the historic Bandera Avenue, and the majestic Court Justices.

Santiago is composed of  many different neighbourhoods, each with its own distinct character and cultural life, for example, we visited Barrio Bellavista (edgy and artistic) and Vitacura (fine dining and high-end shops). However, for Sunday lunch we took the subway out to Barrio Italia, influenced by immigrant communities (particularly from Italy) giving it a rich multicultural vibe.

It is also definitely worth the 30 minute bus ride out to Santiago’s Cemen­terio General, a veritable city of tombs, many adorned with works by famous local sculptors. The names above the crypts read like a who’s who of Chilean history: its most tumultuous moments are attested to by Salvador Allende’s tomb. A wonderful place for peace and contemplation.

The best views in the city can be had from four skyscrapers that make up Costanera Center including Gran Torre Santiago, the tallest building in Latin America (300m). You must head up to Sky Costanera at the top for its spectacular panoramic views.

We then took a day bus tour from Santiago to visit Vina Del Mar and Valparaiso. 

Vina de Mar was a stop purely for pics in front of the Flower Clock. Valparaíso however, was a wonderful mess. The famous Chilean poet, Pablo Neruda, said it best: 'Valparaíso, how absurd you are…you haven't combed your hair, you've never had time to get dressed, life has always surprised you.'

A port of call for commercial ships crossing the Atlantic and Pacific via the Strait of Magellan, it attracted thousands of immigrants in the late 1800s. But following the construction of the Panama Canal in 1914, its sparkle disappeared as traders switched to a more convenient route.

Abandoned mansions and brightly coloured houses still cover Valparaiso’s 45 hills. The city appears to be unplanned and chaotic. A warren of alleys prop precariously on steep slopes, homes seem to have been built haphazardly, apparently with whatever materials could be taken from the port. Connecting neighbourhoods, steep stairwells have transformed it into a labyrinth of ladders. But take the wrong turn and — just like players of the board game — and you could end up slithering down a serpentine alleyway back to square one.

We have never seen so many murals in one city. It’s incredible, at every street corner, on every wall, there’s something new to discover. Not just graffiti, but true works of art. Street Art takes on its full meaning here. You’re always discovering new, interesting details or amusing phrases. Wandering through these alleys was nothing but a joy.

Wherever you are, however, there’s always a view of the Pacific, which gives a sense of space and freedom. Although defined by its past, this unconventional city appears to thrive in the moment.

Halfway between Valparaíso and Viña del Mar, Caleta Portales is Valparaíso's lively wet market, where - besides getting fresh fish and seafood directly from the local fishermen - a natural spectacle is provided by a myriad of sea lions, pelicans, and seagulls battling for scraps under the market's pier. Unfortunately, the day we were there the market was closed.

On the way back to Santiago, we stopped off for some wine-tasting in the Casablanca Valley. This region's wineries specialize in cool-climate grapes like sauvignon blanc and pinot noir. We sampled some excellent vintages at the Casas del Bosque.